SAQA

All qualifications and part qualifications registered on the National Qualifications Framework are public property. Thus the only payment that can be made for them is for service and reproduction. It is illegal to sell this material for profit. If the material is reproduced or quoted, the South African Qualifications Authority (SAQA) should be acknowledged as the source.

SOUTH AFRICAN QUALIFICATIONS AUTHORITY

REGISTERED UNIT STANDARD THAT HAS PASSED THE END DATE:

Perming of Ladies Hair

SAQA US ID	UNIT STANDARD TITLE
11874	Perming of Ladies Hair
ORIGINATOR
SGB Hairdressing Cosmetology and Beauty
PRIMARY OR DELEGATED QUALITY ASSURANCE FUNCTIONARY
-
FIELD			SUBFIELD
Field 11 - Services			Personal Care
ABET BAND	UNIT STANDARD TYPE	PRE-2009 NQF LEVEL	NQF LEVEL	CREDITS
Undefined	Regular	Level 4	NQF Level 04	15
REGISTRATION STATUS		REGISTRATION START DATE	REGISTRATION END DATE	SAQA DECISION NUMBER
Passed the End Date - Status was "Registered"		2001-06-13	2004-06-13	SAQA 0936/01
LAST DATE FOR ENROLMENT		LAST DATE FOR ACHIEVEMENT
2005-06-13		2008-06-13

In all of the tables in this document, both the pre-2009 NQF Level and the NQF Level is shown. In the text (purpose statements, qualification rules, etc), any references to NQF Levels are to the pre-2009 levels unless specifically stated otherwise.

This unit standard does not replace any other unit standard and is not replaced by any other unit standard.

PURPOSE OF THE UNIT STANDARD

Qualifying learners credited with this unit standard have knowledge of the theory of permanent waving, the process of permanent waving, products and tools that are used to perm hair and the skills to successfully offer permanent waving services to clients.

LEARNING ASSUMED TO BE IN PLACE AND RECOGNITION OF PRIOR LEARNING

Literacy, numeracy, communication and language skills equal to a NQF Level 1 Certificate.
Unit Standard 3PCH - Sanitation and Sterilisation for Hairdressing.
Unit Standard 4PCH - Receiving and Consulting with Hairdressing Clients.
Unit Standard 5PCLH - Shampooing of Ladies Hair.
Unit Standard 6PCLH -Conditioning of Ladies Hair.

UNIT STANDARD RANGE

The context of this unit standard is Ladies Hairdressing - Caucasian type hair and covers the scope of hair types, factors influencing the correct choice of products and techniques and a variety of winding techniques.
Products are acid and alkaline perms.

Hair types and lengths on which permanent wave services are to be performed are short hair, medium length hair, long hair, virgin hair, hair that has been previously treated with chemicals, a full head perm and a partial head perm.

Factors that influence choice of products and techniques are hair cut, hair length, hair texture, hair condition, temperature and curl strength.

Winding techniques are brick wind, spiral wind, nine-section wind and fashion winding using double, book and single end techniques.

Specific Outcomes and Assessment Criteria:

SPECIFIC OUTCOME 1

Analyse the hair and scalp and select the appropriate permanent wave products, equipment and tools

OUTCOME NOTES

The learner is able to analyse the hair and scalp and select the appropriate permanent wave products, equipment and tools based on tests conducted.

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA

ASSESSMENT CRITERION 1

1. The workstation is prepared for a permanent wave service.

ASSESSMENT CRITERION 2

2. The client is consulted with, in a professional manner to analyse hair and scalp condition and to establish wave and style requirements.

ASSESSMENT CRITERION 3

3. Information is recorded on the client card.

ASSESSMENT CRITERION 4

4. The appropriate tools, equipment and products based on the results of tests conducted, are selected.

ASSESSMENT CRITERION 5

5. The client is gowned and protected in readiness for a permanent wave service according to salon procedures.

ASSESSMENT CRITERION 6

6. The release form is completed.

ASSESSMENT CRITERION 7

7. The correct permanent wave product and strength, rod size and winding/blocking techniques are selected according to the analysis and recorded.

SPECIFIC OUTCOME 2

Demonstrate the correct procedures for applying permanent wave services to different types & lengths

OUTCOME NOTES

The learner is able to demonstrate the correct procedures for applying permanent wave services to different types and lengths of hair.

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA

ASSESSMENT CRITERION 1

1. The hair is prepared (shampooed, barrier cream applied) for the permanent wave service according to manufacturer's instructions.

ASSESSMENT CRITERION 2

2. Porosity equaliser is applied if necessary.

ASSESSMENT CRITERION 3

3. The hair is parted and sectioned while partings are kept clean and uniform.

ASSESSMENT CRITERION 4

4. The correct tension is used for winding.

ASSESSMENT CRITERION 5

5. The end papers are used correctly.

ASSESSMENT CRITERION 6

6. The permanent wave product is applied in a professional and controlled manner (barrier agents or cotton wool around hair line).

ASSESSMENT CRITERION 7

7. The curl development is monitored, timed and checked according to manufacturer's instructions.

ASSESSMENT CRITERION 8

8. The hair is thoroughly rinsed to remove lotion.

ASSESSMENT CRITERION 9

9. The neutraliser is applied, monitored and rinsed according to manufacturer's instructions.

ASSESSMENT CRITERION 10

10. The perm rods are removed in a controlled manner.

ASSESSMENT CRITERION 11

11. After care products are applied and products for home care recommended.

ASSESSMENT CRITERION 12

12. The final wave result is checked and recorded on the client record card.

ASSESSMENT CRITERION 13

13. If expected final result is not achieved, an oral or written explanation is required.

ASSESSMENT CRITERION 14

14. The client is shown the effect of the finished style with the aid of mirrors.

ASSESSMENT CRITERION 15

15. An effective permanent wave service is produced within a commercially viable time.

ASSESSMENT CRITERION 16

16. Safe and hygienic work practices are demonstrated throughout the service.

UNIT STANDARD ESSENTIAL EMBEDDED KNOWLEDGE

In connection with the chemistry of hair
- Describe the chemical properties of hair in relation to organic and inorganic matter.
- Describe the protein structure of hair with reference to:
- The elements found in hair;
- Amino acids and
- Formation of amino acids;
- The cystine and cystein molecules;
- Peptide formation and polypeptides;
- Keratin and the cystine and cysteine molecules, and the helical structure of keratin;
- Formation of hair.
- Protein and moisture;
- Different fibrils within the hair;
- The layers of the hair.

Discuss:

The bonds in hair with reference to:
- Hydrogen bonds;
- Salt bonds;
- Disulphide bonds;
- Van der Waal's forces;
- Formation of hair bonds;
- Breaking of hair bonds;
- Reforming of hair bonds.

In connection with the structure of hair and its physical properties

Discuss the physical properties of hair with reference to:
- Hair texture and diameter and the influence of texture on:
- choice of perm lotion;
- development time of the perm;
- Elasticity of the hair and the elasticity test;
- Porosity of the hair and the different states of porosity with regard to:
- Influence on lotion choice;
- Influence on development time of the perm;
- The porosity test;
- Pigmentation of the hair;
- Growth direction and patterns;

Describe and discuss safety precautions related to chemical reformation; throughout the module students must be able to state and explain the safety precautions involved in every step of chemical reformation of hair, and must be able to analyse hair with reference to chemical reformation of hair;

Complete a Client Record Card;

In regard to the pH scale:

Explain the meaning of pH with examples;

Describe the use of acids and alkalis in the hairdressing industry;

Explain the effect of acids and alkalis on the hair;

In regard to the chemistry of the permanent wave:

Discuss and explain the chemistry of permanent waving with reference to:
- The range of perm lotions and their benefits;
- The effect of hair porosity on the choice of perm lotion strength;
- Types of perms with reference to alkali perms, what an alkali perm contains, penetration of the cuticle, and breaking of the disulphide bonds in the hair, and reforming the bonds during neutralisation;
- Types of perm with reference to acid perms, the advantages and disadvantages of acid and alkali perms, the difference between acid perms and acid balanced perms;
- Types of perm with reference to heat permanent waving;
- The first stage of the perming process from cystine to cysteine and back to cystine;
- The second and third stages of the perming process;
- Changes in the cortex during permanent waving;
- Treatment of the hair after perming;
- Restoring the natural pH of the hair;
- After care of a perm and educating the client;

Give an account of the history of permanent waving;

Describe permanent waving procedures in detail with reference to:
- Preliminary precautions and the use of a pre-wave lotion;
- Blocking and sectioning;
- Correct and incorrect sectioning;
- Winding with reference to the need for good winding, correct winding techniques, end papers and rod selection and usage;
- Step-by-step perming;
- Perming techniques;
- Home haircare after chemical reformation;

Describe special creative and advanced winding techniques with reference to:
- The use of conventional rods and creative winding techniques including stack winding, the spiral wind, doubledeck/doublewrap, using rods of different sizes, double perming or weave winding, vertical winding, root perming, piggy back winding, cross winding with piggy back, directional winding, volume winding, reverse winding, hit and miss and ponytail winding;
- Advanced winding techniques using unconventional "rods", including spiral rods, rods which bend, weave sticks, winding on chop sticks, perming with crimping clamps, boomerang rods, triangular rods, flat rods, square rods, crutch rods, perming plaited hair hair wound with tissues, chopstick variation, spacing tools, rods that are stepped and angular, mad mats, undulators or ladder stylers, wheel rods and the no rod perm;

Discuss and evaluate permanent waving problems and their solutions including:
- Causes of unsuccessful perms;
- Problems and their causes and the way of correcting them;
- Special problems in permanent waving and their solution with reference to combining tinting with permanent waving, permanent wave lotions for tinted or bleached hair, perming over Egyptian henna, perming over hair treated with metallic preparations, perming over colour rinses, perming over colour shampoos and perming hair 15 cms and longer;
- Permanent waving DO's and DON'T's;

Describe perming the regrowth of the hair;

Explain the reasons why "perms" are sometimes not quite "permanent";

Practical outcomes

In regard to client consultation:

Consult with a client and evaluate scalp and hair condition as they are related to chemical reformation of hair.

Evaluate and analyse hair, scalp and skin condition according to standard Analysis forms and complete the Analysis Sheet;

In regard to safety precautions

Demonstrate that you are conversant with, and are able to apply, the safety precautions involved in every step of chemical reformation of hair including those which apply to the handling of tools.

Identify ammonium thioglycollate in the form in which it is used for perming and in the form in which it is used for relaxing hair.

In regard to pre-perm treatment

Shampoo with the correct shampoo, where appropriate.

Condition or treat the hair, where appropriate, using the correct products.

In regard to the permanent waving procedure

Do a perm according to manufacturer's instructions;

Perform blocking and winding correctly;

Wind a perm correctly taking into account basic and advanced winding techniques with reference to:
- Base size in relation to the diameter of the rods used;
- Use of end papers;
- Correct tension;
- Securing of the rods;

Select perm lotion with reference to the strength necessary.

Apply the perm lotion correctly.

Do a test curl.

Evaluate the perming process according to the desired result.

Demonstrate the rinsing and neutralising procedure with reference to:
- selection of neutraliser;
- blotting of the hair;
- application of the neutraliser;
- timing of the neutraliser; and
- rinsing out of the neutraliser.

Give correct advice to clients in connection with aftercare of the perm at home with reference to:
- Selection and use of correct aftercare products;
- Blow drying the hair in the first 3 days.

In regard to sanitation and sterilisation.

Demonstrate throughout that safe practices are used at all times and that the principles of sanitation and sterilisation as they apply to chemical reformation of hair are applied.

Critical Cross-field Outcomes (CCFO):

UNIT STANDARD CCFO IDENTIFYING

Identify and solve problems in which responses display that responsible decisions using critical and creative thinking have been made.

In order to wave hair permanently and effectively the learner must be able to identify and solve problems in which responses display that responsible decisions using critical and creative thinking have been made.

Continuous assessment of learner's ability to establish and apply solutions for effective permanent waving.

UNIT STANDARD CCFO ORGANISING

Organise and manage oneself and one's activities responsibly and effectively.

In order to offer permanent wave services to clients, a learner must be able to organise and manage him/ her self as well as the activities around permanent wave services, responsibly and effectively.

Continuous assessment of learner's ability to organise and manage a permanent wave service.

UNIT STANDARD CCFO COMMUNICATING

Communicate effectively using visual, mathematical and/or language skills in the modes of oral and/or written presentation.

In order to establish the client's needs, select the best hairdressing products and permanent wave services for the client, recommend home care products and to record the relevant information demands from the learner the ability to communicate effectively using visual, mathematical and language skills in the modes of oral and written presentation.

Continuous assessment of the learner's ability to analyse and complete analysis card and select correct products.

UNIT STANDARD CCFO SCIENCE

Use science and technology effectively and critically, showing responsibility towards the environment and health of others.

To select and recommend the best permanent wave products and services to the client demand from the learner knowledge of the chemistry of products, their effect on the scalp and hair, the safety precautions to be observed with regards to allergies and contra-indications to the application of products and chemical services.

Continuous assessment of learner's ability to responsibly select and recommend the correct products and services.

UNIT STANDARD NOTES

This unit standard will be continuously assessed by means of formative assessment. The assessment of the practical components of Specific Outcome 1 and 2 must be integrated.

Formative assessment tools:

Written tests

Observation in the work place

Logbook

Analysis cards

Assignment

Summative assessment tools:

Written test

Demonstration

Integrated assessment

This unit standard will be assessed as part of the Integrated Assessment for Chemical Reformation of Hair.

Professional manner is assessed according to aspects such as ethical standards, commitment to service, personal and interpersonal skills, body language, tone of voice, posture and personal appearance.

Safety precautions that must be demonstrated for assessment includes:

Proof that a patch test was performed prior to a chemical reformation service;

Protection of client's clothes and face;

Testing of water temperature to ensure client comfort;

Control of water pressure;

Protection of client's head against banging or scratching;

Using clean towels and tools;

Sharp instruments are handled with care;

Manufacturer's instructions are followed;

Barrier products are applied around hairline;

Hands are protected by wearing gloves;

Lids on chemicals are replaced immediately after use;

Jewellery are removed before application of chemicals;

Chemicals are not mixed in metal containers;

Maximum processing time is not exceeded.

QUALIFICATIONS UTILISING THIS UNIT STANDARD:

	ID	QUALIFICATION TITLE	PRE-2009 NQF LEVEL	NQF LEVEL	STATUS	END DATE	PRIMARY OR DELEGATED QA FUNCTIONARY
Core	20152	National Certificate: Ladies Hairdressing	Level 4	NQF Level 04	Passed the End Date - Status was "Registered"	2004-06-13	SERVICES

PROVIDERS CURRENTLY ACCREDITED TO OFFER THIS UNIT STANDARD:

This information shows the current accreditations (i.e. those not past their accreditation end dates), and is the most complete record available to SAQA as of today. Some Primary or Delegated Quality Assurance Functionaries have a lag in their recording systems for provider accreditation, in turn leading to a lag in notifying SAQA of all the providers that they have accredited to offer qualifications and unit standards, as well as any extensions to accreditation end dates. The relevant Primary or Delegated Quality Assurance Functionary should be notified if a record appears to be missing from here.

NONE